one week in tokyo (aka: the best week ever)
eat
Shin Udon
This was the very first restaurant we went to after traveling to Japan from LA, and it was one of the best meals we had the entire trip! This super tiny shop is doing unreal house-made udon, and you can watch them rolling out the dough from the window in front! We got the cold bamboo tray of noodles served with tempura (add sous-vide egg), tempura kake-udon and carbonara udon. The noodles had the perfect amount of chew, and the broth was intense, but not heavy enough that I didn’t finish every last drop.
Lawson’s, 7-Eleven, Family Mart (or any convenience store)
If you watched my Instagram Story for even a second while I was in Japan, you’d see that I basically became obsessed with the egg salad sandwiches. I know, it sounds weird, but convenience stores, in general, are on another level in Japan. The egg salad sandos were my favorite things to get, but I truly didn’t have one bad thing from a convenience store. They have great ramen, chips (try all the Japanese flavors!), drinks etc… Seriously, just go, and you will understand.
Toyosu Fish Market and Tsukiji Fish Market
Tsukiji opened in 1935, and the fish market has sadly closed since I went in July. The outer part of Tsukiji is still open with the amazing outdoor vendors, though. Favorites included matcha-stuffed mochi topped with the best strawberry I’ve ever had and a super buttery in-shell scallop topped with blow-torched uni. Before exploring the outer area, we did the quintessential Japanese breakfast at Daiwa. Omakase was around ¥5500 yen (~$50), and getting in line for sushi at 6:30am and eating super fresh cuts of fish by 7:15am truly made the overall experience so great (by the way, the queues can get to be over three hours long – we got super lucky!). In October, the actual fish market moved to Toyosu. I haven’t been yet, but from what I’ve researched and heard, it’s completely modernized with auction observation decks and windows, and a lot of the restaurants that were at Tsukiji moved there, like Daiwa and cult-favorite Dai. Excited to go the next time I’m in Tokyo!
Maisen Tonkatsu
Tonkatsu is a staple in Japan, and I was stoked to try Maisen because they have unlimited rice and cabbage (dream, I know). I went with the Kurobuta Fillet Pork Cutlet Set (includes tonkatsu, mushroom miso, tonkatsu sauce, unlimited rice and cabbage) for ¥3100 yen (~$29), and both cheaper and more expensive pork options are available. There’s more locations around the city, but we went to the Shibuya Hikarie location – super close to Shibuya crossing!
Ginza West (Aoyoma Garden)
Did I specifically go somewhere for pancakes? Absolutely. These weren’t just any pancakes, though. They were the FLUFFIEST, most beautiful pancakes I’ve ever seen. Get here early, because the queue can get big.
Tsuta
Tokyo has the most Michelin stars in the world, so it only makes sense that it would also have the world’s first Michelin-starred ramen restaurant, right? What makes Tsuta stand out? TRUFFLE. Go with the #1 (Charsiu Wonton Ajitama Shoyu Soba). The truffle is super different and earthy, and the charsiu is so thin it melts in your mouth. I think my favorite part about this place is the way the queue works. Get there early (I got there at 8am), and you’ll be given a ticket for a return time that day – easy as that! (I went to an awesome onsen while I was waiting – more on that below!)
Rokurinsha
Tsukemen (dipping ramen) is my fave kind of ramen, and this spot in the basement of Tokyo Station definitely ruined all other tsukemen experiences for me. It was a little tricky to find, but Google Maps/asking someone should do the trick. This spot can have a long queue, but we got lucky at 8pm on a Sunday and waited only 30 minutes! Pro tip: while in the queue, go inside and buy your ticket from the vending machine. Once you get to the front, you’ll have your ticket ready! The angels at Rokurinsha also stored two 60-pound suitcases for us because we had just gotten back from Kyoto. Great place to go if you’re passing through Tokyo Station.
Han No Daidokoro
Yakiniku (Japanese BBQ) was high on the list while in Japan. This place is awesome for a big group and won’t leave your wallet high and dry. We each got a wagyu set that had at least 10 courses for around ¥4000 yen (~$37) each. We went to the Bettei location in Shibuya.
Himitsudo
The fluffiest, most gigantic kakigori (Japanese shaved ice). They hand-crank each order by hand, and the toppings are unlike anything I’ve ever had! Instead of the syrups we’re used to in the states, they have fresh fruit toppings and the choice of either yogurt or milk. I went with the strawberry and milk, and my friend got the pineapple and yogurt. The contrast of the sour and sweet mixed with the ice was SO good, especially on a hot day. Shout-out to Tomoko from @turningoffjapanese for this awesome rec! It was the only place in Tokyo we went that had only locals in the queue!
ZakuZaku
If you’re into soft serve, this is a must. The dairy is fresh from Hokkaido, and I got the soft serve in a cone topped with croquant (crunchy, sugary almond bits). I also got the the Croquant Chou, which is like a long, crunchy creampuff rolled in the crunchy almonds filled with fresh cream. This is a great snack amidst the craziness of Takeshita Street in Shinjuku.
Deli Fu Cious
This cute shop in the adorable Nakameguro neighborhood makes a fried fish sando you wish you had growing up. Still not totally sure exactly what was inside it, but it was deli(fu)cious.
Kaitensushi Nemuro Hanamura Ginza
Kaiten sushi (conveyor belt sushi) was a must for me in Japan, and this spot has really great quality sushi on the 10th floor of Tokyu Plaza in Ginza. Make sure to get a ticket!
yasuda
It’s only right that I can thank Anthony Bourdain for the inspiration to go here for our last meal in Tokyo (absolutely watch the Parts Unknown episode in Tokyo before you go!). This place was great for an upscale omakase meal that didn’t totally break the bank. Compared to other high-end omakase spots that can cost up to ¥50000 (around $500), this meal was actually pretty affordable for the quality and experience at about ¥10200 (~less than $100). This price reflects the Yasuda Omakase (requires a minimum of 15 pieces that are priced between ¥600-¥900), but there’s also a Sushi Assortment that is a fixed price of ¥9300 for 14 pieces and a roll.
Ebisu Yokocho
A yokocho is an alleyway, usually with a ton of small bars and food stalls. This one in particular is a local favorite that my travel buddy’s grad school friend took us to. The covered alleyway had a great yakitori spot (they even served whole pieces of garlic!). This night may or may not have involved a lot of shochu.
explore
Toyosu Fish Market and Tsukiji Fish Market
I know I’ve already mentioned Toyosu and Tsukiji as places to eat, but they also technically count as must-see spots, even if you aren’t eating (but like, don’t go here and not eat, weirdo).
Golden Gai
If you’re looking for a fun night out, this area of winding, narrow alleyways with over 200 tiny bars is a must. Most of these bars could fit, at most, 10 people. Be prepared to pay a (very small) cover charge or have a drink minimum. We met a ton of awesome people from around the world, and even found ourselves at a bar with 10 Norwegian dudes who we later went on to karaoke with! We went to this spot a couple of blocks away. Definitely go! Link to Google Maps here, because there’s no way I remember the name of it. This blurry selfie is literally the only photo evidence I have from this night, and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
Train Station and Department Store Basements
It sounds weird, but basements in Japan are known for their massive food courts. The entire basement of Tokyo Station, in particular, is bento boxes galore, and the packaged food is perfect to bring for the long rides on the Shinkansen. Even if you’re not looking for food, there’s a ton of other goodies, too!
Somei Onsen Sakura
This experience was an actual DREAM. When waiting for our return time at Tsuta, we went to this unreal onsen just a quick 15-minute walk away in a secluded neighborhood. There were only Japanese people in line (always a great sign), yet the workers here spoke great English. The entrance fee is only ¥1296 (about $12), which allows access to over five natural hot springs (all with different temperatures and properties to help alleviate any pain or symptoms). When entering an onsen, just make sure to be respectful and follow all instructions for bathing, etc. If you’re looking for some moments of relaxation from the craziness of Tokyo, an onsen experience is a must. Photos aren’t allowed inside, but I snapped this photo once inside the gates and right before entering the actual onsen. The whole facility is really beautiful!
Mori Tower
The 54-floor skyscraper is the centerpiece of Roppongi Hills, and being one of the tallest buildings in Japan, the views from the floor-to-ceiling windows on the 52nd floor are unparalleled! This is an Instagram opp just waiting to happen. Mori Tower also houses the Mori Art Museum and a ton of shopping and restaurants, too, so be sure to explore.
Shibuya Crossing
Yes, it really is insane to see the busiest intersection in the world in person. Get your timelapse ready.
Takeshita Street
Located in the famed Harajuku district, Takeshita is lined with restaurants, shops, boutiques and every single color you could ever imagine. It gets super crowded, but it’s definitely worth the visit. Remember to take a snack break at ZakuZaku, and make sure to stop by Tokyu Plaza Omotesando at the end of the street. The escalators have insane mirrored ceilings and walls!
Robot Show
I know, I know. It seems touristy and cheesy, but I promise you, this was worth it. It’s literally a live show with robots and performers, and it couldn’t have been more entertaining. They have different ticket options with dinner and drinks, but we just opted for the show-only tickets. Truly one of the most entertaining things I’ve ever seen! Make sure to purchase tickets online beforehand for a discount.
Ginza Natsuno
If you love chopsticks as much as I do, you’re going to majorly nerd out at Natsuno. This store in Ginza is dedicated solely to chopsticks, and if a chopstick heaven exists, this is it.
Nakameguro and Daikanyama
These are two adorable neighborhoods you need to hit. Nakameguro has a bunch of cute boutiques and a beautiful walk along the river, and Daikanyama is super hipster with major Brooklyn vibes. Make sure to visit T-Site Bookstore, the biggest bookstore chain in Tokyo.